Kera Straightening & Curl
Preserved with Leucidal Liquid
One of the most notable attempts to modify the hair’s texture with some resistance to reversion is practiced in Brazil using a system referred to as Escova Progressiva. This process consists of applying solutions containing high concentrations of formaldehyde to the hair prior to either blow-drying or flat ironing. Formaldehyde has been shown to effectively modify the shape of hair by cross-linking protein end groups to create a stable and complex matrix. Unfortunately, exposure to formaldehyde solutions raises health concerns and limits the user’s styling options as this technology cannot enhance curl retention.
Whether the desire is for smooth, straight hair or voluminous curls, consumers are interested in hair care products that improve ease of styling and shape retention. Active Concepts has pioneered a new enzyme technology which allows one to temporarily straighten or curl the hair. Kera Straightening & Curl not only delivers versatility at the customer’s fingertips, but it has been shown to reduce styling damage while providing further conditioning benefits.
Given the nature of the hair, it can be rather difficult to straighten or curl the hair for long periods of time without inflicting damage. This is because keratins found in hair are very strong and insoluble fibrous alpha-helical proteins. Although there are several different chemical bonds which affect the shape and texture of the hair, two important bonds to consider include hydrogen bonding between amide groups and the disulphide bridges.
Unlike formaldehyde based hair systems, Kera Straightening & Curl is an all natural, ingredient that is capable of modifying hair shape while protecting it from styling damage. This unique ingredient consists of a blend of hydrolyzed keratin andTrametes versicolor extract. Trametes versicolor is a type of mushroom which contains the oxidative enzyme laccase. This distinct heat activated enzyme cross-links free carboxylic acid groups in the hydrolyzed keratin with the amine groups along the cuticle to create a stable network that holds the hair’s texture in a given shape. Styling tools such as hot irons or blow driers can be used to activate the botanical enzyme while simultaneously shaping the hair. This all natural technology provides versatility when it comes to styling and shape retention. Our research confirms that the benefits associated withKera Straightening & Curl last until the hair is washed.
Half head studies indicate that Kera Straightening & Curl promotes ease of styling as only 1 to 2 passes with the flat iron are necessary to effectively straighten curly hair. In figure below, the side treated with Kera Straightening & Curl is clearly smoother, straighter and healthier looking than the side which did not receive any type of treatment prior to using the flat iron. This clearly indicates that Kera Straightening & Curl is ideal for easing the overall straightening process to achieve healthy and glamorous looking hair.
Kera Straightening & Curl also helps strengthen hair while protecting it from styling damage. The enzyme is capable of annealing disulphide bonds which help enhance hair strength. The hydrolyzed keratin further enriches and conditions the hair to further optimize its integrity. In this study, real life conditions were mimicked by subjecting hair swatches to daily hair treatment rituals which included washing and combing the hair as well as using a blow drier and flat iron (290˚F) to style the hair. This treatment cycle was repeated 30 times to simulate styling damage over the course of one month.
In order to maintain optimal enzyme activity, Kera Straightening & Curl should be incorporated into a formulation during the cooling phase or at temperatures below 70°C. For better results, we recommend using this novel material in leave-on applications such as conditioners, creams and serums.
Whether looking to improve styling retention or protect hair from damage resulting from heat and physical forces, Kera Straightening & Curl is an ideal ingredient for use in a wide range of hair care applications. As an added benefit, the botanically derived enzyme and all natural ingredient coincides perfectly with trends for natural and NPA compliant products.
Please contact us if you would like a Straightening Hair or Curly Hair Cream Formulation.
We have the following available upon request:
Curl Retention Study, Irritation Study and Straightening Assay