Quaternized protein is commonly found on ingredient lists for many hair conditioners, shampoos, make-up products and fabric softeners. They contain a quaternary ammonium ion that is covalently attached to the polypeptide chain. Often referred to as quats, quaternary ammonium cations bind to the anionic hair shaft to improve shine and combabil­ity while decreasing static and tangles. The chemical structure of the quaternary ammonium group is a central nitro­gen atom attached to four alkyl or aryl groups and a halogen (e.g. chlorine). Quaternary ammonium ions are similar to ammonium salts yet they are capable of retaining cationic character in high pH environments. As ammonium salts are added to mixtures with a pH above 10, the nitrogen is deprotonated and the salt loses its functional charge.

Cosmetic chemists frequently add proteins to their formulations because they are natural alternatives to the harsh chemicals that are often used in hair and skin care products. Proteins naturally form films that seal in moisture to condition our hair and skin. In the past, animal proteins were used extensively in the cosmetic industry, however a newer approach calls for the use of safer renewable plant based proteins. Plant proteins such as those derived from rice do not pose the risk of contamination from spongiform encephalopathies; as a result, formulations that contain plant derived proteins in lieu of animal proteins are often more appealing to consumers.

Rice (Oryza sativa) is a cereal grain derived from wild grasses. At the moment, rice production represents 30% of the world’s cereal production and sustains 3 billion people daily as a means of nour­ishment. Humans have depended on rice as a dietary staple for thousands of years; however the exact origin of rice is unknown. One theory is that it originated in an area near the Eastern Hima­layan Mountains. Remnants of cultivated rice have been found in the Yangtze Valley dating back to approximately 8500 B.C2. Al­though there are over 120,000 different varieties of rice, the three most commonly used varieties are: indica, which is fluffy and high in amylase, japonica, which is sticky and low in amylase and lastly javanica, which is slightly sticky with an intermediate level of amy­lase. Amylase is a polysaccharide within the rice granule.

Rice is comprised of approximately 8% protein. This protein is comprised of four different sub-units, with the greatest concentration being glutelin, and then globulin followed by albumin and prolamin respectively. Each protein constitu­ent has different solubility in liquids such as water, diluted acids, and salt and alcohol solutions.

Rice quats coat the entire hair shaft to create a lubricating film on the cuticle that also temporarily mends split ends. Hair is not alive; although the body naturally produces sebum to condition and protect hair it does not repair damage. The cuticle is the out­ermost layer of hair; it consists of protein chains that form a scale-like pattern along the entire hair shaft. The cuticle is easily damaged through regular hair maintenance regi­mens including shampooing, drying, bombing and styling.

FSS Quaternized Rice can be added to conditioners, shampoos and soaps. Formulators may also add FSS Quater­nized Rice to skin care products and make up, the cationic compound binds well to the skin to form a film, which helps seal in moisture while increasing the longevity of make-up.