Quaternized protein is commonly found on
ingredient lists for many hair conditioners, shampoos, make-up products and
fabric softeners. They contain a quaternary ammonium ion that is
covalently attached to the polypeptide chain. Often referred to as quats,
quaternary ammonium cations bind to the anionic hair shaft to improve shine and
combability while decreasing static and tangles. The chemical structure
of the quaternary ammonium group is a central nitrogen atom attached to four
alkyl or aryl groups and a halogen (e.g. chlorine). Quaternary ammonium
ions are similar to ammonium salts yet they are capable of retaining cationic
character in high pH environments. As ammonium salts are added to
mixtures with a pH above 10, the nitrogen is deprotonated and the salt loses
its functional charge.
Cosmetic chemists frequently add proteins to
their formulations because they are natural alternatives to the harsh chemicals
that are often used in hair and skin care products. Proteins naturally
form films that seal in moisture to condition our hair and skin. In the
past, animal proteins were used extensively in the cosmetic industry, however a
newer approach calls for the use of safer renewable plant based proteins.
Plant proteins such as those derived from rice do not pose the risk of
contamination from spongiform encephalopathies; as a result, formulations that
contain plant derived proteins in lieu of animal proteins are often more
appealing to consumers.
Rice (Oryza sativa) is a cereal grain
derived from wild grasses. At the moment, rice production represents
30% of the world’s cereal production and sustains 3 billion people daily as a
means of nourishment. Humans have depended on rice as a dietary
staple for thousands of years; however the exact origin of rice is
unknown. One theory is that it originated in an area near the
Eastern Himalayan Mountains. Remnants of cultivated rice have been
found in the Yangtze Valley dating back to approximately 8500
B.C2. Although there are over 120,000 different varieties of
rice, the three most commonly used varieties are: indica, which is fluffy and
high in amylase, japonica, which is sticky and low in amylase and lastly
javanica, which is slightly sticky with an intermediate level of amylase. Amylase
is a polysaccharide within the rice granule.
Rice is comprised of approximately 8%
protein. This protein is comprised of four different sub-units, with
the greatest concentration being glutelin, and then globulin followed by
albumin and prolamin respectively. Each protein constituent has
different solubility in liquids such as water, diluted acids, and salt and
alcohol solutions.
Rice quats coat the entire hair shaft to create
a lubricating film on the cuticle that also temporarily mends split
ends. Hair is not alive; although the body naturally produces sebum
to condition and protect hair it does not repair damage. The cuticle
is the outermost layer of hair; it consists of protein chains that form a
scale-like pattern along the entire hair shaft. The cuticle is
easily damaged through regular hair maintenance regimens including shampooing,
drying, bombing and styling.
FSS Quaternized Rice can be added to conditioners, shampoos and
soaps. Formulators may also add FSS Quaternized Rice to skin
care products and make up, the cationic compound binds well to the skin to form
a film, which helps seal in moisture while increasing the longevity of make-up.
INCI Nomenclature:
|
Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
|
Suggested Use
Levels:
|
1.0-10.0%
|
Suggested
Applications:
|
Moisturization
|
Appearance:
|
Clear Light to
Amber Liquid
|
Solubility In
Water:
|
Soluble
|
pH: (Direct)
|
5.0-7.0
|