Phytomulse™ Amaranth
O/W Emulsions
Benefits of using Phytomulse™ Products:
• High Performance Emulsifiers
• Improves Stability
• High Compatibility
• Aesthetic Modifier
• Impressive
Sensorial Profile
Phytomulse™, a line of
high-performance emulsifiers developed that will allow you to design your own distinct
emulsifying system from a selection of feedstock:
Almond, Amaranth, Chlorella, and Coconut. The Phytomulse™ Product Line allows
customization and consistency within a product line, while capitalizing on
natural and sustainable trends in the personal care and cosmetic market. These complete
emulsifying systems also offer cost savings to the formulating chemist.
Typically, an
emulsifying system would require the use of additional stabilizing orgelling
agents, however, neither are required when using a product from the Phytomulse™
Product Line. This will, of course, allow chemists to develop economic
formulations while also reducing production time, freeing warehouse space, and
easing raw material management- Efficiency at its best!
The emulsifier
itself is a blend of cetearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate which works in conjunction
with the properties specific to the feedstock selected. Both the cetearyl alcohol
and glyceryl stearate are sourced from sustainably harvested and manufactured coconut
palm oil. In addition to their emulsifying properties, these components also provide
functional benefits when added to a formula. Cetearyl alcohol increases opacity,
viscosity, and emolliency. Glyceryl stearate enhances hydration by improving the
skin’s barrier function, with the added bonus of improving product stability by
increasing freeze resistance and reducing water evaporation.
Phytomulse™ Amaranth
Amaranthus is prized in
the skin care industry for its unusually high squalene content. Squalene provides
moisturizing, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties which are known to
contribute to healthy, youthful looking skin. These properties are likely
attributable to the plant’s ability to withstand drought and thrive on the poor
soil and arid land of Central and South America. Amaranthus was a staple crop
of the ancient Aztec and Inca civilizations. Often referred to as summer
poinsettia, it consists of nearly 60 plant species that are categorized as
either grain or green leaf vegetable types.
Amaranthus consists
of approximately 5% to 9% oil which is generally higher than other cereals. The
lipid fraction of amaranthus is roughly 60% unsaturated fats, with linoleic
acid as the predominant fatty acid- a composition similar to that of other
cereals. However, squalene represents 5% to 8% of Amaranthus’ total lipid
fraction which sets the plant apart from the rest. Dr. Tsujimoto of Japan was
the first to research the health benefits of Squalene (C30H50), an unsaturated
hydrocarbon. He noticed that sharks do not develop cancer or tumors, and
eventually attributed this to the squalene produced in sharks’ livers. Squalene
has been extensively researched and was found to play a key role in maintaining
health because of its ability to carry oxygen. Squalane (C30H62) is produced
from the catalytic hydrogenation of squalene.
Our bodies
naturally produce squalane and squalene, and they are major components of human
sebum. As part of our sebum, they help retain moisture within the skin and
provide a protective antibacterial/antifungicidal coating. Incorporate
Amaranthus into formulations for anti-aging benefits and natural emolliency that
creates supple skin without an unpleasant, greasy feel.
SCIENCE
The
Phytomulse™ Product Line is a blend of non-ionic surfactants intended to
simplify and differentiate emulsionformulation.
Phytomulse™ is especially useful in stabilizing emulsion formulations that have
a high oil phase.
Formulas
that contain 30% oil or more are very problematic to stabilize in an O/W
emulsions. The Phytomulse™ Product
Line is able to efficiently and effectively stabilize this phase due to the
combination of key surfactants
and
the formation of unique liquid crystals. Any Phytomulse™ product should be added
to the oily phase of an
emulsion
and heated to <80C. These emulsifying systems are compatible with most gums
and polymers, which
may
be used to adjust the texture of the formula itself.
BENEFITS
The
Phytomulse™ Product Line is a complete emulsifying system that provides an
opportunity for customization and
consistency within your line of products. The Phytomulse™ emulsifying system is
compatible with a wide
range
of emollients including: natural oils, silicones, esters, and hydrocarbons.
Furthermore, in formulations the Phytomulse™
line creates an aesthetically pleasant, full-bodied texture, satiny-smooth rub
in, and sinuous end feel.
EFFICACY
Emulsions
can be formulated over a wide range of viscosities which have rheologies from
flowing fluids to thick, viscous
creams. The Phytomuse™ Product Line can be used with polymeric, thickening
agents, natural gums and
other
viscosity modifiers and stabilizers. When an emulsion incorporates the
Phytomulse™ Product Line it produces an
immediate improvement in the sensorial aesthetics of a product and increases
spreadability from initial contact
through
complete absorption. The response is an elegant, soft sensation that persists
for hours after applying the
product. These emulsions are also very fine in texture, amplifying their
ability to provide a luxurious, shiny
appearance
on the skin.
|
INCI Nomenclature:
|
Cetearyl Alcohol &
Glyceryl Stearate & Amarantheth-20
|
|
Suggested Use Levels:
|
2.0-6.0%
|
|
Appearance:
|
Flaked Wax
|
|
Solubility:
|
Oil
Dispersible
|
|
Application:
|
Aesthetic Modifier,
Stabilizes Formula,
Compatibility
with a Variety of
Emollients
and Actives, Forms Liquid
Crystals,
Emulsifier
|
Storage: Protected from direct light and humidity at a temperature of 50°-77°F
(10°-25°C)
Shelf life: 12 months, properly
stored, in sealed container.
This product should be added to a formulation at
the recommended usage rate
1) “History of Almonds.” National Almond Day! February 16.
N.p., n.d. Web. 27 Feb. 2015.
<http://www.nationalalmondday.com/history-of-almonds.html>.
2) “Sweet Almond Oil.” CenterChem, n.d. Web. 25 Feb. 2015.
<http%3A%2F%2Fwww.centerchem.com%2FProducts%2FDownloadFile.aspx%3FFileID%3D6849>.
3) Tijan, Lukas T.S. “Squalene for Skin Care.” Science for
Life. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Apr. 2015.
<http://www.scienceforlife.eu/tekst%20squalene%20for%20skin%20care.htm>.
4) Liebke, Frank. “Chlorella Vulgaris - Medicinal Food.”
Klinghardt Academy. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Apr. 2015. <http://www.klinghardtacademy.com/articles/chlorella-vulgarismedicinal-
food.html>5) “Coconut Research Center Home Page.” Coconut Research
Center Home Page. N.p., n.d. Web. 25 Feb. 2015.
<http://www.coconutresearchcenter.org/>.
