FSS Olive Squalane
From a formulating point of view, squalane is just about as good as it gets. Like water, it’s clear, it’s colorless and it’s odorless. It seems like a perfect ingredient for use in cosmetics. Originally, commercially available forms of squalane were derived from shark liver. Squalane is a non‐greasy oil soluble emollient that is often used as a moisturizer and conditioner. Squalane is the stable form of squalene, a component naturally present in both botanical oils and in our sebum. Shark liver squalene was commercialized decades ago after it was realized that squalene accounts for approximately 10% of our sebum composition. In our bodies, squalene protects our skin from lipid peroxidation. However the hydrocarbons’ degree of unsaturation causes it to oxidize over time thus creating a strong odor in cosmetic products. Chemists overcame this problem by saturating the aliphatic compound to form commercially available squalane derived from shark liver squalene. This process had ensured squalane’s use in cosmetics since then. Today olive derived squalane is a more commonly used ingredient as it’s an animal friendly alternative to shark liver derived squalane. Despite the excellent conditioning and hydrating benefits, there are some drawbacks to using olive derived squalane, as the water gets a little murky when the question of sustainability is raised.
Lately, the word sustainability seems to be on the tips of consumers’ tongues. This increased desire has further segmented the “naturals” portion of the cosmetics industry. At first glance it appeared that consumers were focused solely on using natural botanical ingredients in cosmetics. Now it is understood that consumers are becoming more intensely focused on using natural botanical ingredients only if they are from highly sustainable sources. Of course it is helpful to understand the consumer perception of sustainability and how it pertains to cosmetics. Sustainability is really a measurement of long term maintenance. Several factors are involved in determining this, such as average annual yields, which can vary and consumer demand. Of course the best indicator of sustainability is price, as products that are not sustainable tend to fluctuate in price.
The issue with using olive derived squalane is of course sustainability. Squalane is an olive oil bi-product. It is removed from the oil during the refining process. When the demand for refined grades of olive oil was high, there was a large surplus of olive squalane available for use in cosmetics. This was obviously reflected in its price. Unfortunately the demand for extra-virgin olive oil affects the availability of squalane. This is again reflected in the price of olive squalane. The result is of course excessive pressure on chemists who want to continue using squalane, but can’t afford too based on pre-determined formulary cost structure. Clearly olive squalane is not sustainable, had it been the ingredient would not be subject to fluctuations in price.
There is however a solution. Our extensive knowledge in oleo-chemistry has allowed us to create a sustainable botanically derived alternative called FSS Olive Squalane. Although it does not actually contain squalane, it is a mix of hydrocarbons isolated from olive oil that mimic the properties of olive squalane perfectly. Like squalane, FSS Olive Squalane is clear, colorless and odorless. It is also a non-greasy oil soluble emollient that is capable of mixing with sebum present on the skin. This may help reduce the viscosity of sebum to minimize its greasy feel. Of course the big difference between FSS Olive Squalane and olive derived squalane is sustainability. Unlike olive derived squalane, the production of FSS Olive Squalane is not restricted by the production of extra-virgin olive oil. FSS Olive Squalane coincides perfectly with the consumer demand for sustainable and naturally derived botanical ingredients.
Useful in a variety of applications, FSS Olive Squalane is an excellent ingredient for skin creams, hair serums and conditioners as well as cuticle treatments. Since FSS Olive Squalane contains purified hydrocarbons there is little worry with regard to pH restrictions or temperature stability.
This ingredient is featured in Herb Nerd's cosmetic chemistry classes! Learn how to work with it in the Formula Building Blocks Course. Use code FSS05 for 5% off tuition.
INCI Nomenclature: Squalane
Appearance: Clear Liquid
Solubility: Oil Soluble
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-10.0%
Suggested Applications: Skincare, Hair care, Conditioning, Hydrating
Specific Gravity: 0.825-0.855
Storage: Protected from direct light and humidity at a temperature of 50°-77°F (10°-25°C)
Shelf life: 12 months from the date of manufacture.
This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.
All products sold are cosmetic grade; External Use Only; Cosmetic & Personal Care Formulations Only.
Our products are for cosmetic and personal care formulations only; External Use Only. We recommend working with a chemist or a formulator if you’re not advanced in formulating.
Statements contained herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat and cure, or prevent disease.
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