
BACKGROUND
Manufactured using extracts of Sandalwood, Phellodendron Amurense
Bark, and Barley, FSS Barrier Protect can be used in cosmetic and personal care
applications. Sandalwood extracts are used all over the world as Ayurveda
treatments for their soothing and astringent properties. Known to be mildly
sedative, sandalwood promotes feelings of tranquillity and encourages stress
relief. Sandalwood is a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent,
perfect for use in skin and scalp treatments for helping remove toxins and
improve circulation. Additionally, sandalwood is used as a means to increase
shine and prevent dry ends in hair treatments. Phellodendron Amurense Bark is
native to Eastern Asia, and its extracts are used to reduce transepidermal
water loss and aid in retaining moisture levels in the skin. A potent
antioxidant, this bark also boasts immune boosting properties associated with
its berberine constituents. Berberine is a plant alkaloid with a long history
of medicinal use in both Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. It has a demonstrated
ability to prevent and suppress proinflammatory cytokines and increase
adiponectin expression, plus act as an antimicrobial, explaining its
versatility in health and wellness applications. Antioxidant packed and vitamin
and mineral rich, Barley extracts can reduce inflammation and provide barrier
protection from environmental pollutants. Its high selenium concentration has
been shown to preserve elasticity and protect against reactive oxygen species.
These benefits facilitate skin toning and tightening. Additionally, the zinc
and copper found in barley promote wound healing and melanin formation,
responsible for hair color, respectively.
BENEFITS
FSS Barrier Protect imparts a thin, smooth cushion on the skin
with perceivable softening benefits. On the hair, this product forms a fine
film that imparts immediate shine and smoothing benefits. FSS Barrier Protect
quickly assimilates and penetrates both the skin and hair, integrating itself
with these environments to enhance and supplement compromised components of the
existing structures. This product is ideal for improving barrier function which
improves moisture levels and retention while protecting against environmental
stressors.
EFFICACY
Observed changes in epidermal hydration are often quantified by
measuring changes in electrical conductance of the stratum corneum via
impedance measurements. A DPM 9003 NOVA Impedance meter was used to observe
improvements in moisturization following treatment with FSS Barrier Protect.
Measurements were taken on three separate skin patches of each volunteer,
recorded and then averaged. The ten subjects were then instructed to apply the
test material twice a day to a specific area on the face. Impedance
measurements were taken at the start of the study, at the end of week two and
at the end of week four. FSS Barrier Protect demonstrated much higher
moisturization results than the mineral oil positive control or the carbopol
test site both at the end of week two and four.

Furthermore, to test the ability of FSS Barrier Protect to reduce
transepidermal water loss, 10 m/f subjects had the stratum corneum removed on
eight 4 x 4 cm sites on their forearms using the tape stripping method.
Approximately 15 strips were taken, or until the TEWL, as measured with a
ServoMed evaporimeter was greater than 10mg/cm - 2/ hours, which is about 5
times normal. After stripping, the control vehicle, Carbopol, Mineral Oil
(10.0% in Carbopol) and AC Barrier Protect (2.0% in Carbopol) were applied
every 12 hours and the rates of barrier repair were compared. FSS Barrier
Protect was found to be very effective in promoting barrier repair.
Single strands of hair (approximately 10 per
subject/ evaluation) from volunteers participating in the study were removed
and assessed for moisture content using a gas-bearing electrodyanometer. At a
low force elongation, the exensibility of hair is directly proportional to
water content at the fixed force. The ration of elongation divided by force (x/
F) was plotted for each hair fiber to indicate changes in water content. All
values were corrected for hair diameter and treated samples were compared to
the base shampoo control. In order to retain water and make hair appear more
visco-elastic, we must replenish the lipids in the hair.
When volunteers treated their hair for a month under true life
conditions and mechanical properties were assessed via the Gas Bearing
Electrodynameter (GBE), we observed that the test shampoo containing 1.0% FSS
Barrier Protect in a base shampoo yielded much high results of moisture
retention than the base shampoo alone. Furthermore, when assessed at relatively
low humidity (15.0%), dramatic increase in hair extensibility were observed,
demonstrating that the shampoo containing 1.0% FSS Barrier Protect resulted in
hair with a much better water barrier.
INCI Nomenclature:
|
Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract & Santalum Album
(Sandalwood) Extract & Phellodendron
|
Suggested Use
Levels:
|
1-10%
|
Suggested: Applications:
|
Improved Barrier Function, Moisturization,
Hair Hydration,
Hair Aesthetics
|
Appearance:
|
Transparent/Clear to Slightly Hazy
|
Solubility:
|
Insoluble in water
|
Storage: Protected from direct light and humidity at a temperature of 50°-77°F
(10°-25°C)
Shelf life: 12 months, properly stored, in sealed container.
This
product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.