FSS Honey Matte
The quintessential aesthetic for the skin is clear and smooth complexion with an even tone and matte finish. Unfortunately, this cannot be achieved when excess sebum is present on the skin. Sebum is responsible for the appearance of oily or greasy skin. Traditional approaches to treating oily skin involve stripping the sebum with alcohol-based toners or absorbing the excess sebum using talc products. Both of these treatments can cause a rebound effect where the skin produces more sebum to compensate for excessive dryness. To prevent this from happening, Active Concepts developed Honey Matte, a natural ingredient that does not remove the sebum from the skin, but rather controls it retaining its intended benefits and preventing associated negative side-effects.
Sebum is produced by our sebaceous glands. Its primary function is to weather-proof our skin and hair, while also preventing our skin from becoming dehydrated. Sebum is a mixture of triglycerides, waxes, sterol esters and squalene. The three fatty acid chains found in triglycerides induce keratinization in the sebaceous glands which leads to clogged pores, and eventually, breakouts on the skin.
Squalene, waxes and sterol esters help protect the skin from foreign substances. However, if over production of sebum occurs, maintaining moisture balance in the skin becomes an issue as normal transpiration becomes blocked. Sebum is notorious for creating an unsightly film on the skin and is one of the main contributors of problem skin. Not only does it clog pores, generating blackheads and whiteheads, it enhances the conditions favorable to the proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria principally responsible for breakouts and problem skin.
Honey Matte is an alkyl modified polymer derived from Honey. This material employs coconut fatty acids, providing an affinity to lipids which will naturally bind to excess oil as it is produced. By reacting coconut fatty acids with honey, this product is a unique, amphiphilic molecule which combines the properties of oil absorbing and water dispersible polymers.
Honey Matte contains a water-soluble backbone that acts as a film former causing the polymer to plate out on the skin. Meanwhile, the alkyl moieties change the contact angle of the sebum present on the skin. This change no longer allows the sebum to exist as a free film on the skin. Instead, sebum is forced to exist as distinct droplets. By changing the way that sebum exists on the skin, it is possible to eliminate the unwanted greasy feel and shiny aesthetic, while preventing excessive dryness or a rebound effect.
An in-vivo half face study was conducted to measure Honey Matte’s ability to minimize the quantity of sebum on the skin. The study was conducted with 20 M/F volunteers between the ages of 20 and 28 years old. All subjects were asked to apply a lotion containing 1.0% Honey Matte on one side of their face and a hydro-alcoholic base with no additive to the other side of their face. The selection of the side where the test material was to be applied was randomized. Both products were applied twice a day for three days. The levels of sebum were then measured using a Sebumeter (Courage-Khazaka Model SM810). A baseline measurement was taken at the start of the study and another measurement was taken after three days. The results demonstrated that 1% Honey Matte is capable of minimizing the quantity of sebum on the skin by 78% when compared to the control. Honey Matte outperformed the control’s ability to reduce sebum by 61% over a period of three days.
Additionally, another half head study was conducted to measure Honey Matte’s ability to reduce the appearance of oily skin and provide users with a matte finish. The study was conducted on 20 M/F volunteers between the ages of 20 and 28 years old. All subjects were asked to apply a solution of 1% Honey Matte in Water to one side of their forehead and apply an untreated control to the other side of their forehead. One minute after application, pictures were taken to analyze the mattifying effects of Honey Matte (Equipment: Pentax Optio RZ10 Digital Camera). Results indicated the ability of Honey Matte to reduce the appearance of oily skin and provide users with a matte aesthetic.
Honey Matte is an efficacious alternative to traditional approaches used for treating oily skin. Thanks to its ability to change the way sebum exists on the skin, while also preventing further sebum production, this science-based ingredient is useful for providing a matte finish while also reducing an oily appearance and greasy feel on the skin. In addition to preventing dryness, Honey Matte also diminishes future incidences of problem skin. We recommend adding Honey Matte during the cooling phase of a formulation, after the emulsion has been formed. Formulators can add this material to cosmetic and personal care applications that are designed to provide a natural approach to shine-free skin that remains flawless throughout the day.
INCI Nomenclature: Honey Cocoates
Appearance: Hazy Liquid
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-10.0%
pH: 6.5-8.5
Storage: Protected from direct light and humidity at a temperature of 50°-77°F (10°-25°C)
Shelf life: 12 months from the date of manufacture.
This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.
All products sold are cosmetic grade; External Use Only; Cosmetic & Personal Care Formulations Only.
Our products are for cosmetic and personal care formulations only; External Use Only. We recommend working with a chemist or a formulator if you’re not advanced in formulating.
Statements contained herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat and cure, or prevent disease.
