FSS Quaternized Lemon Shine
Preserved with Leucidal Liquid
Natural and botanically derived, these are claims just about everyone’s interested in seeing on labels nowadays. Of course, it can be difficult to make such claims when focusing on hair care ingredients. In the past animal proteins were used extensively in shampoos, conditioners and styling products to make hair look healthy and shiny. However, with concerns regarding safety and animal rights, the use of animal proteins has fallen out of favor. A variety of polymers are useful for increasing hair shine, however they certainly are not natural. The best alternative for chemist is to use botanically derived proteins, such as lemon proteins.
Although the exact origins are unknown, the lemon (Citrus limon) is believed to have originated in India, northern Burma and China. Today it is a popular ingredient in a variety of cuisines and is often added as a garnish to beverages. Recognized as an excellent source of vitamin C, many are surprised to find out that lemons are also a source of protein. These proteins have elastic and binding properties that make them useful for a variety of applications such as film forming, hydrating, emulsifying and strengthening.
To increase substantivity to the anionic hair shaft, proteins can also be quaternized. Quaternized proteins contain a quaternary ammonium ion that is covalently attached to the polypeptide chain. Often referred to as quats, quaternary ammonium cations bind to the anionic hair shaft to improve shine and combability while decreasing static and tangles. The chemical structure of the quaternary ammonium group is a central nitrogen atom attached to four alkyl or aryl groups and a halogen (e.g. chlorine). Quaternary ammonium ions are similar to ammonium salts yet they are capable of retaining cationic character in extremely basic environments. As ammonium salts are added to mixtures with a pH above 10, the nitrogen is deprotonated and the salt loses its functional charge.
To further enhance the shine properties, the quaternized proteins can be cross-linked to create an aggregate with increased molecular weight. This allows the formation of a film with a higher refractive index than that of a typical quaternized protein. Additionally, the film formed by the protein may also seal in moisture to prevent desiccation that is often caused by styling tools such as hair dryers and curling/straightening irons.
FSS Quaternized Lemon Shine consists of lemon protein that is hydrolyzed to decrease pH and solubility reactivity issues. Chemical and enzymatic reactions are then used to bind the ammonium cations to the lemon hydrolysate thus creating a structure with cationic character; this increases the affinity that the positively charged protein has for the negatively charged hair shaft and skin cell. The hydrolysate is then cross-linked to increase the refractive index of FSS Quaternized Lemon Shine, which further increases the shine benefits it has on the hair shaft.
INCI Nomenclature: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Lemon Protein
Appearance: Cloudy, Slightly Viscous Amber Liquid
Solubility: Water Soluble
Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-5.0%
Suggested Applications: Anti-static, Conditioner, Moisturizer, Shine Agent
pH: 5.0-6.5
Storage: Protected from direct light and humidity at a temperature of 50°-77°F (10°-25°C)
Shelf life: 12 months from the date of manufacture.
This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.
All products sold are cosmetic grade; External Use Only; Cosmetic & Personal Care Formulations Only.
Our products are for cosmetic and personal care formulations only; External Use Only. We recommend working with a chemist or a formulator if you’re not advanced in formulating.
Statements contained herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat and cure, or prevent disease.
